AC Repair in Bedford, IN: How to Repair 3 Frequent Troubles

There can be several explanations why your air conditioner won’t run: an overloaded circuit breaker, wrong thermostat settings, a turned off switch or a full condensate drain pan.

Your air conditioner won’t turn on when you have a tripped breaker.

To see if one has tripped, go to your residence’s main electrical panel. You can spot this silver box on the wall in the basement, garage or closet.

• Ensure your hands and feet are free of moisture before you work on the panel or breakers.
• Find the breaker marked “AC” and ensure it’s in the “on” location. If it’s overloaded the lever will be in the middle or “off” spot.
• Firmly shift the breaker back to the “on” location. If it instantly flips again, leave it alone and get in touch with us at 812-266-9785. A switch that keeps turning off could mean your home has electrical trouble.

If your thermostat isn’t telling your equipment to work, it won’t activate.

The most important step is checking it’s on “cool” and not “heat.” Otherwise your air conditioner may not start running. Or you might receive. warm air blowing from vents because the heater is going instead.

If you have a regular thermostat:

• Replace the batteries if the screen is blank. If the monitor is showing garbled characters, replace the thermostat.
• Ensure the right program is displaying. If you can’t change it, reverse it by decreasing the temperature and pushing the “hold” button. This will make your AC start if the configuration is wrong.
• Try setting the thermostat 5 degrees cooler than the room’s temperature. Your AC won’t start if the thermostat is identical to the room’s temperature.

Once your thermostat is adjusted correctly, you should receive chilled air quickly.

If you’re using a smart thermostat, like one produced by Nest, Ecobee, Lux, Honeywell or Bosch, look at the manufacturer’s website for troubleshooting. If you’re still having problems, reach us at 812-266-9785 for help.

Your system typically has a shut-down switch near its outdoor unit. This lever is typically in a metal box hung on your house. If your unit has recently been tuned up, the device may have inadvertently been put in the “off” position.

Condensate drain pans catch the additional water your system removes from the air. This pan can be positioned either below or in your furnace or air handler.

When there’s a clog or backed up drain, water can build up and prompt a safety setting to switch off your equipment.

If your pan has a PVC pipe or drain, you can drain the extra condensation with a special pan-cleaning tab. You can get these capsules at a home improvement or hardware store.

If your pan includes a pump, look for the float switch. If the lever is “up” and there’s water in the pan, you may need to get a new pump. Call us at 812-266-9785 for assistance.

If your equipment is going but not cooling, its airflow could be blocked. Or it may not have enough refrigerant.

Your unit’s airflow can be restricted by a blocked air filter or dusty condenser.

A filthy filter can create numerous problems, like:

• Lower cooling
• Frozen refrigerant lines or evaporator coil
• Intermittent cooling
• Bigger electricity expenses
• Causing your system to wear out faster

We propose installing new flat filters once a month, and accordion filters every three months.

If you can’t recall when you last changed yours, shut off your AC fully and remove the filter. You can find the filter in your furnace or air pump’s blower compartment. It could also be located in a connected filter box or wall-mounted return air grille.

Hold the filter up to the light. If you can’t see through it you need to replace it.

Greenery, vegetation and leaves can get in the way of your condensing equipment. This could restrict its airflow, make it less energy efficient and impact your comfort. Here’s a way you can get your equipment running properly again.

1. Switch off electricity totally at the breaker or outside switch.
2. Clear yard debris around the AC. Once you’ve removed bigger refuse within a two-foot area, you can use a fine-bristled brush or vacuum to slowly remove dust from the condenser fins. Kinked fins can also impact effectiveness, so you can attempt to correct them with a blunt knife.
3. Use a hose nozzle to gingerly remove gunk off the fins from inside the system. Be careful to avoid getting moisture on the fan motor.
4. Replace the top and turn the power back on.

When cooling equipment doesn’t have adequate refrigerant, they’ll have to work much harder to remove heat and humidity from your house.

Here are a couple of symptoms that your unit is losing refrigerant:

1. It takes too long to cool your space and you’re regularly decreasing the temperature on the thermostat.
2. Air conditioning coming through the registers isn’t as chilly as it should be.
3. You’re hearing fizzing or burbling noises when cooling works.
4. Your evaporator coil is frosted due to having an issue absorbing humidity.

Suspect your equipment is leaking refrigerant? You need a certified heating and cooling service expert to repair the leak and replenish the correct measurement of refrigerant in your unit. Call us at 812-266-9785 for support.

When it seems like you’re not getting enough chilled air, there’s usually an obstruction or separation inside your air conditioning equipment.

• The beginning step is examining your air filter. Replace it if it’s dusty.
• Then check the vents are open across your residence.
• If you’re still not getting enough chilly air, you should have your ducts inspected by a expert like JBR Mechanical. Your duct system may need to be fixed or reconnected in difficult locations like your attic, basement or crawl space.